Tutuianu Marinica-Daniel
The Lipscani area
The
Lipscani area is a lively part of old Bucharest which polarized various trades
between the 15th-18th centuries. The Lipsca is apparently the Romanian
transcription of the name of Leipzig.
and Lipscani was the name of the merchants who sold
goods imported from Leipzig.
The Lipscani is a famous street in the historic downtown of Bucuresti only a
few meters far from the Kilometer number 0 of Romanian Capital .After the
earthquake in 1977, the historic area of Lipscani was often threatened with demolition; when they started
to build the so-called Civic Centre
on Ceausescu's order, in its
close vicinity, Lipscani entered
an age of decay and oblivion. It was partially restored after 1990, especially
in the Banks area, but most of
the old houses and narrow sloping streets still wait for some Prince Charming investor who may
return to them their formerly life and glamour.
Even before the
official foundation of Bucharest
(September 20, 1459), the Lipscani
area represented the heart of the city. Once the political and economic power
concentrated in the area of the Princely
Court, around 1600, a lot of guilds and shops came into being, and that
is why the area would be populated with goldsmiths, hatters, shoemakers,
tanners, furriers, saddlemakers, grocers a.o. Many streets in the area still
bear the names of those tradesmen and craftsmen. Along with the Romanians,
there were communities of Greek, Bulgarian, Serbian, Armenian,
Jewish, Albanian and Austrian merchants. This mixture of nationalities is
relevant for the flourishing trade relationships established in old Bucharest, to the benefit
of both shopkeepers and customers.
If one takes an
imaginary trip back into time, he or she can see the shopkeepers out in the
street near their stores, for they never stood behind the counter; they would
watch people from the outside, encourage them to buy their merchandise,
negotiate prices with them, for each pedestrian could be a possible customer,
and thus contribute to their wealth.
Luxury and poverty,
expensive and cheap commodities were mixed up in the same manner in which the
Eastern world would meet the Western one in this part of Europe.
There were many
inns built in the area for the tradesmen who would stop by for business in Bucharest, or would be on
their way to other cities and fairs. Most of the formely known inns have not
resisted to the test of time; others can still be seen, like the Inn with Lime Trees (1833) or the Manuc's Inn
(1808) - see also presentation.
When walking along
the by-streets of Lipscani, one can still be impressed by the architecture of
the one-storey houses built in different styles: Renaissance, Baroque, Neo
Classic, or sometimes a mixture of them all, with their fine ornaments, baroque
balconies, classic façades and eclectic decorations.
At the end of
Lipscani St., there is the Smardan St., where one can find some banks built in
the 19th century, i.e. the National Bank (built between
1883-1885, and conceived by architects Albert
Galleron and Cassien Bernard
in neo-classic French style), Ion
Tiriac Bank, the Bank for
Agriculture.
After having left
the Smardan St., one reaches
the Stavropoleos St.,
well-known for the famous Stavropoleos
Church built in 1724 by the Greek monk Ioanichie, in late brancovan
style (see its vegetal decorations: the belt with floral motives, columns with
flowers). Near the church, there is a 'chiostro', a yard with three
covered sides, in which there are columns, slabs and tombstones. The
'chiostro' was designed by one of the most prominent Romanian
architects, Ion Mincu who also
restored the church in 1899.
Where Stavropoleos
St. meets Victoriei Avenue,
there is a famous restaurant and beer house, i.e. 'The Beer Cart' (1879). Both its
façades and interiors are built in Neo-gothic style (see pavement, columns,
arches, chandeliers, wooden staircase, furniture, mural paintings on the walls
and the ceiling). This place was much sought by famous Romanian literary and
political figures, who would often meet there and
discuss topical matters of their time over a mug of beer.
A bit farther,
across the street, on the Victoriei Avenue,
stands the Palace
of the Savings Bank, an imposing and well-balanced edifice built in the
French academic eclectic style by architect Paul Gottereau. The palace has a
square shape, a large central dome with metallic ribs separated by glass, which
allows natural light to come in; there are also four smaller domes, whereas the
main entrance has a monumental archway, supported on both sides by two pillars
in composite style.
Going back to Smardan
St., one can admire the richly-decorated
building of the Fashion House (1881) built in neo-classic style combined with
Renaissance elements. The interiors are as luxurious as one can expect for a
fashion house: marble staircase, columns with gilt ornanemts, stained-glass.
The Lipscani commercial area was developed
around the Old Princely Court
placed in the Princely St.
(the present French St.), the oldest one in Bucharest. It used to be paved with oak beams
by order of Prince Constantin Brancoveanu in 1692, and was
designed to link his Princely Court
to the Mogosoaia Bridge
(today's Victoriei Avenue),
which led right to Brancoveanu's
summer residence at Mogosoaia.
The oak beams come from the rich forests around Bucharest
can still be seen at the entrance of Manuc's
Inn (1804-1808), in the close
neighbourhood of the present-day ruins of the Old
Princely Court.
May you wish to buy
a souvenir like an antique, an art, or a Romanian folk object, glassware, a
household commodity, or would you look after a fine lady fur coat, the small
shops in the Lipscani area are there to please you.
